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February 15th, 2010

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Dealing With Ice Dams on Roofs

February 15th, 2010


Agent,  James Lunders

A phenomenon that can occur from Autumn through Spring is ice dams on the roofs of homes. Ice dams can cause damage to structures that can be very severe. Following is some important information about ice dams, how they can be prevented, and who to call if one should cause damage to your home.

What is an ice dam, and how does it form?
When snow accumulates on a roof, a cycle of melting and refreezing occurs. In a perfect world, the snow would melt off the roof, enter the gutters, and flow harmlessly to the ground. However, two key factors can interact to cause problems: the outside air temperature and the temperature of the inside of your attic.

The warmer your attic is, the more melting will occur. Normally, the resulting water would flow off the edge of the roof. Under certain conditions, though, when outside air temperature is very low, the edge of the roof stays below freezing and the water refreezes when it gets to that point. This ice then forms a line, or “dam,” at the edge of the roof. As more snow melts, it also refreezes when it gets to the “ice dam,” and the dam keeps getting bigger.

Once this dam gets large enough, the melted snow that pools up behind it can force its way back under the roof shingles and then leak into your home! Contrary to some popular opinions, gutters do not cause ice dams. However, an ice dam can extend into a gutter if weather conditions permit.

How can ice dams be prevented in the first place?
In many instances, the answer is… insulation and ventilation!

INSULATION
Since the main cause of ice dams is an overly warm attic, a good start in preventing ice dams is to lower the attic temperature. Installing additional insulation in the attic area is as easy as laying additional layers across the existing ones, or having more insulation blown in. However, there are limits to the usefulness of this procedure (diminishing returns), and a professional roofer or insulation person should be consulted if you have any questions.

If you notice bare sections on your roof while the rest of the roof has snow, it is an indication there may be insufficient insulation under the bare areas and an inspection of the attic area should be made to confirm this – and then to remedy the situation if necessary.

And, finally, you should also inspect the weather-stripping and/or insulation on attic stairways or hatchways to be sure it is in good shape and seals well. This will help seal the warmth out of the attic area and help prevent ice dams.

VENTILATION
Even with optimal insulation, there is still heat leakage into the attic. This is when the value of attic ventilation becomes apparent. Without adequate ventilation, heat will build up regardless of the amount of insulation.

First of all, inspect your attic to be sure that the existing vents have not been covered by insulation or other materials or objects. If this has occurred, it is necessary to remove the insulation (or other material) from the soffits so air can move through them freely. The usual recommendation for venting is 1 square foot of vent for every 150 feet of attic floor area. If your home does not have that ratio (many older homes do not), then you should contact a Contractor to remedy the problem.

If your home does not have vents, consider adding a ridge vent. Again, a professional Roofer or Contractor can give sound advice on the procedure.

If you are not sure about the condition of your roof, you should contact a professional Roofer in your area for advice or assistance.

What are the indicators of an ice dam?
If you notice water damage (marks, drips or lines) on ceilings or exterior walls, it can be an indication that an ice dam has formed, and ice and water have forced their way into your attic area. In addition to fixing the cause of the ice dam, it is important to recognize that this is a true water damage situation that should be remediated by trained professionals, such as PuroClean, to prevent additional damage to the structure (such as rotting), and to prevent the development of mold – a health hazard to people inside of the structure.

Regardless of the circumstances – if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, call your local PuroClean office. For all water damage, or damage from fire or smoke, PuroClean professionals will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. All PuroClean offices have professional, well-trained and certified Technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.

CATEGORIES OF WATER DAMAGE

March 4th, 2009

Agent, James Lunders

Water damage is one of the most common problems that people experience in their homes. Water may enter through a leak in your roof, from appliance failures such as washing machines, dishwashers, or icemakers, through broken sewer lines, or from major fire extinguishing efforts.  The longer the water sits, the more extensive the damage becomes. Immediately addressing water problems can often save thousands of dollars in damage repair costs.

To create a common language and to help allow for standardization between disaster restoration companies and insurance adjusters, water damages are broken down into categories with guidelines for dealing with each.  According to the IICRC Standard and Reference Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration (IICRC S500), there are three categories of water that cause damage in buildings.  They are summarized as follows:

Category 1—CLEAN WATER originates from a source that does not pose substantial harm to humans.  Examples: burst water pipes, failed supply lines on appliances and vertically falling rainwater

Category 2—GRAY WATER (unsanitary) contains a significant degree of contamination, physical, biological or chemical, and has potential to cause discomfort or sickness if consumed by humans.  Examples: small overflow of toilet bowls with no waste, broken aquariums, dishwasher and washing machine overflows

Category 3—BLACK WATER (grossly unsanitary) contains pathogenic agents.  Examples:  sewage back-ups, floodwater, water that contains chemical or other wastes

Different removal methods and measures are used depending upon the category of water.  Water may lurk behind baseboards, sheetrock, and studs and is often missed by homeowners, resulting in bacteria and mold issues.  Cleaners will use specialized moisture detection tools to assess the affected areas, determine the extent of the damage, and establish a plan for returning the area to a pre-loss condition.  Services will be provided safely, quickly, and with as little inconvenience to the homeowner as possible.

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February 15th, 2009

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WATER DAMAGE – Prevention is the Best Medicine

February 6th, 2009

By James Lunders, Agent

If you are involved in insuring, managing or owing real estate, you have received many calls from clients who have suffered a water loss. After all, statistics indicate that over one million water damage incidents occur every year. The average American uses between 80 to 100 gallons of water a day, and that sometimes it goes astray and leads to a disaster. The best “solution” is to help your clients prevent water damage from occurring in the first place!

These are some of the most common sources of claims and tips on how they can be avoided:

INCOMING WASHER HOSES are the most common source of water damage in a home. Inferior hoses can become brittle over time, causing them to burst.  The best solution is to simply turn the hose valves on and off as we start and finish the task of washing clothes.  Although the washing machine manufacturers post a small notice recommending that the hoses be replaced every five years, this notice is seldom seen and rarely followed. The next line of defense is to replace existing hoses with wire-braided, high-pressure hoses.

ICE MAKER LEAKS are very common and very damaging. Continual, slow leaks can migrate under vinyl, stone and other flooring without notice. At least once a month, move the refrigerator or other appliances and physically check for any water damage or signs of leaks.

FREEZING PIPES are more vulnerable to winter cold in Southern climates. Pipes are more likely to be located in unprotected areas outside the building insulation and homeowners tend to be less aware of potential freezing problems, which may occur only once or twice a season. In Southern states the “temperature alert threshold” is 20 degrees F. The most common solution for vulnerable pipes is to wrap them with foam or fiberglass insulation sleeves. On nights when the forecast predicts that temperatures will dip to 20 degrees or below, let faucets drip slowly to keep water flowing through pipes that are vulnerable to freezing.

Ice Dam Prevention

February 6th, 2009

By James Lunders, Agent

As winter progresses through cycles of freezing and thawing, many homeowners experience ice buildup and roof damage.  An ice dam is an accumulation of ice at the lower edge of a sloped roof, usually at the gutter. When interior heat melts the snow on the roof, the water runs down and refreezes at the roof’s edge, where temperatures are much cooler. Eventually, the ice builds up and blocks water from draining off of the roof. This, in turn, forces the water under the roof covering and into the attic or down the inside walls of the house. Once an ice dam forms, the potential damage can be serious. Take these steps now to avoid trouble later:

  • Ensure that gutters are clear of leaves and debris.
  • Keep the attic well ventilated. The colder the attic, the less melting and refreezing on the roof.
  • Keep the attic floor well insulated to minimize the amount of heat rising through the attic from within the house.

This three-step approach decreases the likelihood that ice dams will form or, at least, reduces their size. As an extra precaution against roof leaks in case ice dams do form, consider installing a water-repellent membrane under the roof covering. Talk with your local building official about minimum code requirements for ice dam protection.
In the event that an ice dam has already formed, there are several steps that may be taken to reduce its ill effects.  Using a roof rake and push broom, remove the snow by carefully pulling it down the slope of the roof line. Never pull snow across the roof as it may break off the shingles and cause further damage.  In an emergency situation where water is flowing into the house structure, making channels through the ice dam will allow water behind the dam to escape.  Hosing with tap water on a warm day will accomplish this.  However, these channels will become ineffective within days and should only be viewed as a temporary solution.

HOLIDAY SAFETY FACTS

December 3rd, 2008


By James Lunders, Insurance Agent

For many people, decorating the Christmas tree is a favorite part of the holiday. The National Safety Council offers some safety tips to make sure a mishap doesn’t spoil your holiday season.

Tree lights


Only use indoor lights indoors (and outdoor lights only outdoors). Look for the UL label. Check lights for broken or cracked sockets, frayed or bare wires, or loose connections. Replace or repair any damaged light sets.

Also, use no more than three light sets on any one extension cord. Extension cords should be placed against the wall to avoid tripping hazards, but do not run cords under rugs.
Turn off all lights on trees and decorations when you go to bed or leave the house.


    Christmas Trees

    A real tree can add to the spirit of Christmas by filling your home with beauty and the scent of pine. But a real tree can also pose a fire hazard. Each year, more than 400 residential fires involve Christmas trees and tragically nearly 40 deaths and 100 injuries result from those fires.

    Try to select a fresh tree by looking for one that is green. The needles of pines and spruces should bend, not break and should be hard to pull off the branches. On fir species, a needle pulled from a fresh tree will snap when bent, much like a fresh carrot. Also, look for a trunk sticky with sap.

    Cut off about two inches of the trunk and put the tree in a sturdy, water-holding stand. Keep the stand filled with water so the tree does not dry out quickly.

    Stand your tree away from fireplaces, radiators and other heat sources. Make sure the tree does not block foot traffic or doorways.
    If you use an artificial tree, choose one that tested and labeled as fire resistant. Artificial trees with built-in electrical systems should have the Underwriters Laboratory (UL) label.


      Have a Safe and Happy Holiday Season



      Turkey Fryers Can Be Dangerous

      November 3rd, 2008


      By James Lunders, Insurance Agent


      What you should know about Turkey Fryers

      A longtime food favorite in the southern United States, the delicious deep-fried turkey has quickly grown in popularity thanks to celebrity chefs. While some people rave about this tasty creation, UL safety experts are concerned that backyard chefs may be sacrificing safety for good taste. After extensive testing, UL has decided not to certify any turkey fryers with their trusted UL mark.

      Here’s why using a deep-fryer can be dangerous:

      • Many units easily tip over, spilling the hot oil,which can result in fire.
      • If the cooking pot is overfilled, oil may spill out of the unit when the turkey is placed inside. The burner will ignite the oil, which can cause flames to engulf the entire unit.
      • Marinades or water from frozen turkeys may react with the oil, causing the oil to spillover resulting in a fire or explosion.
      • With no thermostat controls, the unit also has the potential to overheat to the point of combustion.

      If you must use a turkey fryer, here are some tips for safer use:

      • Turkey fryers should always be used outdoors a safe distance from buildings and any other material that can burn. Never use turkey fryers on wooden decks or in garages.
      • Make sure the fryers are used on a flat surface to reduce accidental tipping.
      • To avoid oil spillover, do not overfill the fryer.
      • Keep an all-purpose fire extinguisher nearby. Never use water to extinguish a grease fire.
      • If the fire increases, immediately call 9-1-1.

       

      Water Heater Failures

      October 15th, 2008


      By James Lunders, Insurance Agent

      When was the last time you thought about your water heater?  Most people don’t unless it stops working during a power outage.  It’s wonderful that something works so dependably for years and years, but that wonderful service can lull you into complacency and have drastic consequences.
      Did you know…

      • 29.7 % of all water heaters in the United States will rupture before they’re 9 years old.
      • Over 69% of water heaters will rupture by age 14.
      • Each year an estimated 5,000,000 water heaters will be replaced due to ruptures.  A hot water heater will fail regardless of whether or not the water is flowing or the resident is home.
      • The repair costs from water heater ruptures can be among the most expensive because the water heater is inside the home, holds large quantities of mold inducing hot water, and can go unnoticed for long periods of time.
      • Decreasing the amount of water heater failures by half could potentially save the insurance industry an estimated 5-10 billion dollars a year.

      To protect your home from the devastating effects of a hot water heater failure, be sure to visually inspect the heater monthly, check the age and replace hot water heaters after 10 years, and talk to your plumber about placing the heater in an area that won’t be greatly affected by water like your garage, basement or crawlspace.  Never put a hot water heater in your attic.  If it fails, the water will affect every part of the home under the unit causing tremendous amounts of aggravation to the homeowner and a major expense to the insurance company.

       

       

      Preventing Water Damage in your Home

      August 29th, 2008

      Here are answers to a few of the most commonly asked questions:

      Q: How do I know if I have water damage in my kitchen?

      A: The following are typical signs of water damage in the kitchen:

      • Leaks under the sink
      • Slow draining pipes
      • Cracked tile or missing grout
      • Soft or stained walls or floors
      • Leaks under and around the base of the dishwasher
      • Moisture behind the refrigerator 

      Q: I can see discoloration on the wall near my utility sink and the wall is getting softer.  Does that mean there is a problem?
      A: Stained or discolored walls around the utility sink probably means there is a leak in the pipes behind the stained wall.  Fixing these pipes usually requires professional help.

      Q: What are the warning signs for water damage caused by the refrigerator?
      A: Generally, there are three red flags for water damage originating by the refrigerator:

      • Moisture behind or under the refrigerator, including water accumulating on the coils
      • Leaks from the hose connection and seals (Commonly found in the icemaker’s water supply line) 
      • Mold growth in the drain pan, which indicates an ongoing problem that must be treated immediately.  This should be checked quarterly.